Words by Willy
All pictures by Simon Chipper

The 2009 Indonesian season was not a great one, don't believe anyone that tells you differently. Now I'm not saying there weren't waves, it's Indo, of course there were waves, and great waves. It's just the swells weren't their usual consistent selves, and the winds were a little off their usual pattern, making for a bit of a frustrating wave season. But search and you will be rewarded, have patience and it will repay you, and if the waves aren't great, then do a little travelling, and see what this magnificent country has to offer.






Travelling for long stretches of time in Indonesia is 50% surfing and 50% cruising. Sometimes, the percentages differ, but round it off at the end of the trip and it comes out about even. Mixing with the people and checking out new places and new things is as prevalent as getting shacked of your head in dream waves, while wearing boardies! This year we headed back to the island of Java, visiting some favourite places and old friends, as well as being treated to a couple of special new breaks, for now unknown, but no doubt it won't be long until their location is common knowledge.




Even when the waves are small, Indonesia is a beautiful and prisrine place. Villages like the one above are commonplace all along the coastlines of Java and beyond. Also, the fish that comes from the boats is super cheap and freshly caught that day. Just start a fire on the beach and lunch is served.



Ah the island of rights. Sometimes being a natural footer in Indo can be a little frustrating, especially if you backhand tube ride as bad as I do. But this area is home to many rights, as well as some great lefts, and sweet straighthanders.



The morning is the time to surf here, as it is light offshore, and also the local boys won't hit the water because it is too cold. Never mind the fact it's over 25 degrees outside and the water isn't much cooler. The locals are really friendly and sharing, but quite a few of them surf, so getting in the water before they do means you have a better pick of the waves.






Above and below are two of the older guys that have this place wired. Supaman (that's seriously his name), and Jerry (below) have been surfing this place since the beginning. Gotta love the wetties too, they are keen as mustard to get hold of a 4/3 next time we're back.








Easily the photo of the trip. According to Simon this kid got so pitted then came out in front of him, flipped the bird, and proceeded to get shacked again. The kid's about 10, and Simon reckons it was easily the best wave the young fella has ever ridden. And wasn't the kid stoked when he saw the pic!


After spending time with our good friend Iman and the other boys from the area, we moved further east to a little town close to our hearts. A few years ago this place was hit by a tsunami, and our friends lost family members, their friends, and all their homes. It has since been rebuilt, and through it all we have developed friendships with a few of the guys that will last lifetimes.  You would say the wave quality in the area was average, fun beachbreaks and a fickle left reef/point. That was until recently a couple of the younger guys hit the road in search of something new......and scored! It was a fair hike from town, but there are now 3 or 4 quality waves in the area, that if you have the time and knowledge, you can score to yourself.



Getting up at 3am to start the 3-4 hour journey in search of rumored perfection is usually not such a bad thing. Unfortunately the town is returning to its tourist days, and the backpacker population is increasing, meaning large Bintangs with cute girls til 2am is not the best of ideas if you want to be in good shape for the road trip. You learn the hard way.



3 hours in the car, boat across the river, 2km hike/ride in, and 400 coffees, but it's worth it. As you round the point you see lefts breaking at you, and you begin to realise that the local guys weren't just talking this spot up. In front of the wave there is a tiny fishing community, no power or running water, but they'll look after your stuff while you make the 100m paddle out to the wave in front of their homes. Imagine that up til only a year or so ago most of these villagers didn't even know about surfing, and probably woke up every day to this perfect left firing across the reef that shelters their fishing boats. It will change soon no doubt.



The best thing about this wave is you don't know where it is. Surfing here was like that Indonesian dream, the feeling of surfing perfect waves in paradise with not a soul around. It sounds a little cheesy, but really to experience that feeling was something special, something you never forget.



Just another of the new waves in the area. You will notice in all the pictures there's no-one in the water, don't get used to it.



Our good friend Jaja, Friend of Island Michael, Willy, and Simon. Jaja is the guru of the area, and has been a great friend over the last few years. He was pretty much the guy who brought surfing to the local people here, and it has spread all the way through to the grommies of today.



And with waves like this you can see why this place will take off over the next few years.